These often have yardage “settings,” usually from 10 yards to infinity on the parallax adjustment knob. Many of today’s scopes are made to accommodate parallax adjustment. This is why you would want to adjust parallax according to the distance from you to your target. Proper parallax adjustment varies with distance. Essentially what you have done is placed the crosshairs and the target on the same plane, one right on top of the other, by making the adjustment. Both the crosshairs and the target should at that point be crystal clear. When you have done so, you have properly adjusted parallax for that specific distance, between scope and target. To correct parallax, if your scope has parallax adjustment either on the front objective or in most instances a “knob” on the opposite side of your scope’s windage adjustment (left side of the scope), slowly turn the knob while looking through your scope moving your head slightly from side to side and/or up and down until the crosshairs no longer move, placing the crosshairs and the target on the same ocular plane. But with these days’ higher magnification scopes up to 18x and more, and the fact some of us shoot beyond 300 yards, parallax can indeed come into play if not corrected or properly set. At 100 yards parallax maximum error of accuracy is 2/10-inch. At close distances, parallax does not effect accuracy. So adjusted, out to 300 yards, parallax very seldom came into play. Our early fixed and variable power scopes came from the factory with parallax adjusted at 100 or 150 yards. Until scope magnification started exceeding 10x and we started shooting regularly beyond 300 yards, we did not have to be concerned about parallax. If you going to shoot beyond 300 yards and use a 12x or higher magnification scope, parallax needs to be considered. However, if you commonly shoot beyond 300 yards, then your scope should truly have parallax adjustment to clear up your target focus. If shooting out to only 300 yards, you do not really need to be concerned about parallax. It occurs when the target does not fall on the same optical plane as the reticle.”Ī simple way to look at parallax is to call it your “target focus.” Scopes that do not have a parallax adjustment feature have a fixed parallax. To me a better description/definition is one found in the FTW Ranch’s Sportsman All-Weather, All-Terrain Marksmanship Training manual… “Parallax is the apparent movement of the target relative to the reticle when you move your eye away from the center point of the eye piece. The dictionary defines parallax as “the apparent displacement or the difference in apparent direction of an object as seen from two different points not on a straight line with the object.” What? Confusing? It is to me, too. Actually it’s been only in recent years that I started shooting long ranges and using scopes beyond 10x that I truly became aware of, and, found it necessary to learn about parallax. I did not learn about parallax until about 30 years ago. Back then I was never concerned about parallax. Just exactly what is parallax? Is this something I should be concerned about regarding the scopes on my hunting rifles? I’m currently using a 2.5-10x scope, but I am thinking about stepping up to a 3-18x.Ī: Like you, I have been hunting with a riflescope for a long time, albeit, longer than you mentioned, going back to a 4x Weaver and later during those early days a 3-9x Leupold. Today, many scopes have as special side knob for parallax adjustment. It’s interesting how hunting optics have changed since that time. Q: I started hunting with a scope on my rifle about 40 years ago, initially a fixed 4x Weaver and then a 3-9x Redfield with duplex crosshairs.
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